Mixologist Steve Da Cruz of Vancouver’s chic Boneta restaurant and bar says a rebirth of an appreciation of long lost drink recipes has seen classics such as the Whisky Sour and the Manhattan regain places alongside sophisticated new cocktails
CONTEMPORARY WHISKY MIXOLOGY HONOURS CLASSICS
Working the bar at Boneta – the chic restaurant come watering hole in Vancouver’s most storied neighbourhood, Gastown – Steve Da Cruz is clearly in his element. The 30-year-old part-time actor and teacher is also one of Vancouver’s top mixologists, an individual known equally for his bartending flare as for his willingness to share his nearly encyclopedic knowledge of fine liquors and their lore.
With Canada Day approaching, Da Cruz has Canadian whisky on his mind.
“Over the last five years, there has been a renaissance, a rebirth of an appreciation of long lost drink recipes,” says Da Cruz, noting that during the ’80s many tasteful, classic cocktails were relegated to hotel bars, eclipsed by the advent of sugary concoctions.
Today, he says classics – such as the whisky sour – are back, and they are in the good company of sophisticated, contemporary drinks designed to respect, complement and enhance rather than mask a fine spirit’s distinct flavours and characteristics.
“With whisky, you have so many styles, whether it’s bourbon, Irish, Scotch or Canadian – each has its own characteristics,” says Da Cruz, noting that while North America’s first whisky was produced in Pennsylvania, Canadian whisky was introduced by early Scottish and Irish settlers who distilled the liquor from Ontario-grown rye.
He says the use of rye explains, in part, why Canadian whisky is “a lighter and sweeter variety, closer to an Irish whisky in its flavour,” especially compared to Kentucky bourbon, for example, which is distilled from sour mash corn.
Most whiskies, including Canadian, are a blend of grain and malt whiskies. The amount of aging, and the type of cask in which a whisky lays, significantly influences a whisky’s flavour and smoothness.
For example, barrel aging in various types of oak as well as sherry and sometimes Viognier or other casks can impart a range of flavours, including the smoky essence and vanilla oak character known to reserve whiskies.
Typically, the longer a whisky is aged (the minimum is three years) and the type of barrels used reflects a whisky’s flavour, quality and ultimately, its price.
Danfield’s Private Reserve whisky, for example, is the result of the distiller’s masterful blend of rye, corn, malted barley and pure Rocky Mountain water. Aged in oak barrels for 10 years, this whisky offers a full nose highlighted by butterscotch, oak and spice. On the palate, its flavour is rich and clean, with a soft mouth feel and a robust finish – hallmarks of an expertly blended whisky.
Surprisingly, this handcrafted premium whisky, produced in batches of less than 100 barrels and filtered through Canadian diamond pads for added smoothness, is affordably priced.
“As they age, a reserve aged Canadian whisky becomes soft and supple,” says Da Cruz.
Respecting the distiller’s craftsmanship, mixologists such as Da Cruz are careful to treat premium spirits with respect. “In mixology, you want something that will enhance these characteristics, but not dominate them,” he says.
Demonstrating how to make a classic Manhattan, Da Cruz describes how the drink is typically made with Canadian whisky, a habit that harkens to its popularity during prohibition. He notes, however, that the true classic is made with a Pennsylvania rye, which imparts “a more robust, sweet flavour and a woody oaky warmth.”
Trivia aside, Da Cruz happily proceeds with the agesold Canadian version, combining premium Canadian whisky, red vermouth and bitters in a mixing glass. Serving, he finishes the drink with a cherry. The result is delicious. Like a gourmet chef, he notes, “It hits the bridge of your nose, the cinnamon in the bitters.”
He says another classic enjoying new popularity is the Canadian whisky sour. “It’s such an old school drink. A lot of men, in particular, order them because they remember their dad or grandfather’s fondness of the drink.”
Da Cruz’s take on the whisky sour begins with two ounces of Canadian rye, shaken with egg white, organic Turbinado sugar, Peychaud’s Bitters and Myer lemon juice.
He finishes the sour with organic brandy marinated cherries. “It’s wonderfully light, tart and refreshing; sweet, full and light,” says Da Cruz.
Sounds like a classic way to toast Canada’s birthday, indeed.
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