Tuck in, and savour your vacation
KELOWNA
Gazing out the window of our rental car, we ease along a rural road not 10 minutes from downtown Kelowna passing dormant orchards, vineyards and farms that will soon spring to life. The scene is intoxicating. Adding a somewhat surreal dimension to the experience, we will soon coast downhill into a bustling urban core to pass the remainder of the day perusing shops and galleries, and studying menus in preparation for this evening’s culinary adventure. This is the lush life, Kelowna style.
Our morning exploration is exhilarating, the air fresh. Ponderosa pines splash an evergreen contrast to an otherwise golden brown landscape of rolling hills and mountains.
Though it’s decidedly cool now, compared to the plus-30-degree temperatures that attract throngs of tourists to Kelowna each summer, the skies are clear and blue, a classic winter day in B.C.’s sunny Okanagan Valley.
In town, we drive along the Lake Okanagan shore past grassy parks, beaches, waterfront homes and guest accommodations, making our way to Kelowna’s historic downtown core. From our perch at the decidedly funky Bohemian Bagel Café on Bernard Avenue intriguing shops clad in red brick facades beg exploration.
At A Pure Shade, an independent stained glass jewellery and gifts boutique, striking one-of-a-kind necklaces in fiery colours entice. At Enigma, a shop known among Kelowna’s best places to buy “cool gifts,” we peruse artsy imports and home accents. Wandering into Mosaic Books, we discover books and magazines that range from those focused on political and social issues to spirituality and local interest. The pace is unhurried. The store even has its own coffee shop.
Proprietor Michael Neill says, “A visitor recently said, ‘I didn’t know there were independent downtown bookstores anymore.’”
He says his store is just part of Kelowna’s downtown heritage and experience. “I bought this bookstore 12 years ago, but it’s been in business since 1968. We are surrounded by interesting, independent businesses. This doesn’t exist in many cities across Canada.”
He believes that locals and tourists alike come here “for an experience that is eclectic and a little slower-paced. It’s a place where you want to unwind and enjoy life.”
Nearby, Kelowna’s Cultural District is developing in style. A cluster of contemporary condominium developments and shops are anchored by attractions such as the Laurel Packinghouse, a heritage building that now houses museums devoted to Kelowna’s fruit-growing and wine industries. Within a six-block radius there are art galleries, artists’ studios, performance spaces and a surprising collection of public art, especially for a town of just under 107,000 people.
Next door to Bouchons, a classic French bistro, we set our sites on Waterfront Wines – an adjoining wine store and restaurant. Chef, sommelier and general manager Mark Filatow says he has seen Kelowna’s culinary scene deepen significantly since he arrived in 2001 to help open Fresco, another of the city’s top tables.
“We have an educated, well-travelled segment that seeks out high-end restaurants,” says Filatow, who notes he’s helping open yet another new establishment – Restaurant Seven Six Four, located on the way to CedarCreek Estate Winery.
The explosive growth of local wineries has propelled the emergence of a rich culinary scene where restaurateurs, and their patrons, benefit from local vino paired with regional bounty that ranges from seasonal fruits and vegetables to fresh cheeses and locally raised meats.
“We update our menu every four or five weeks to reflect the seaonality,” says Filatow. These days, Waterfront’s menu features delicious starters such as the spot prawn risotto with chorizo, saffron, basil and grana padano cheese, and tasty mains including the brined Violet Creek Berkshire pork tenderloin with organic squash and potato gratin.
Waterfront’s wine list features over 320 selections. “People can try local wines they’ve never heard of,” says Filatow, who notes that within a short drive are award-winning wineries including Mission Hill Family Estate, Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, Gray Monk, Arrowleaf, Tantalus and others. “St Hubertus, Summerhill Pyramid Winery and Cedar- Creek Estate Winery are all within 10 minutes of one another.”
Wineries are the biggest attraction, but the greater outdoors are also phenomenal,” says Filatow. “You can’t find land like this in Europe any more. And Kelowna is at the centre of it all.”
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